Tag Archives: lizardmen

Chapterhouse Kroxigor

Or, as Chapterhouse Studios calls them, a “Lizard-Ogre”…I’ve talked about Chapterhouse Studios before, and how they have really made their fame and fortune by making Games Workshop compatible models and accessories. After Games workshop Lost a major court case against this tiny studio, I mean really it’s only two guys, Chapterhouse, and many other studios that made compatible, or even downright replicas of, Games workshop products, began labeling them in a way that would tie them closer to the Games Workshop products that they were imitating.

On the one hand Games Workshop has the right and the duty to protect their intellectual property. On the other hand; they have been legal bullies for decades going after every small producer that made anything even remotely similar to their products. They even sent cease-and-desist letters to many internet fan-sites who were only promoting GW’s games and it appears their only crime was to make alternate army lists for those games. So many sites have vanished over the years for no reason because of those cease-and-desist letters and peoples unwillingness to fight them. Chapterhouse fought, and won about half of their suit. Games workshop has now changed the names of most of their product lines to something far more distinctive and less generic. The more distinctive a product name is, the easier it is to defend against infringement. They really should’ve done this a long time ago as it would’ve saved them a great deal of trouble, in my humble, non-legally binding, opinion.

Short story long; I bought a Chapterhouse resin-cast 28mm Lizardman compatible “Lizard-Ogre” to see what all the fuss was about. Wasn’t cheap, $18 with shipping for a single large mini means I won’t be shopping there very often. The model is a really clean cast though-


I was a bit worried at first about how the pieces were connected to the big resin tabs and I was concerned that they may be damaged in the removal. The tail popped right off though with no problems. The arms and club were also easy, I did have to use a little saw under the feet. Very little in the way of mold lines so clean up was a breeze. No base was included to mount the mini on so I’ll count that as a minor strike against the company. Perhaps I’ll sue them for the $.25 component that was left out. 😉 It glued together really easily, looks like he’s next up to bat –


Chapterhpouse Kroxigor3.jpg









I primed him black, then had a different thought; “Instead of dry-brushing him white what if I tried a layering approach that I’ve seen GW painters use?” So the next step was to paint him with a dark green all over, Waaagh Flesh, but only on the high areas and leave the recessed areas black. Then paint over the dark green with a medium green, Warboss Green, to get more depth of color –

Chapterhpouse Kroxigor4.jpg




Little brass on the club, little brown on the handle, lighter brown on the wristbands, white on the teeth and toe-nails, yellow in his eyes, red studs on his club, and finally a light green, Nurgling Green, for ridge and edge highlights-



That actually went together very quickly. I feel like he needs a little something more, not sure what yet, so I’ll set him aside while I work on other projects.

Flying Vypers and Riding Lizards

Old projects and not as old projects; the Eldar Vypers from sixteen years ago are finally done, and so are more lizardmen from three years ago.


I’ll be honest, I just plain lost the clear canopies for these vehicles, and for a few more Eldar transports still in the big box of old projects. Not sure why just those parts went away. :/ My painting styles have changed a bit over the years but they’ll still work together. I also decided to finish up these lizardman cavalry, which are now apparently called “Seraphon”, which I think is some kind of weird Furry sex fetish thingy…I wish GW had researched that name a little better, they’ll always be lizardmen to me though.


The last of the Lizardmen have also been painted and dipped, nothing left in that box except for a pile of Skinks and some personality figures. I also have some big plastic dinos that I’d like to convert into war machines…someday. In the meanwhile the dip is drying on these scaly fellas and I’m looking through the big back burner box for what to finish next.


Painting the lizard

I realized that I’ve talked about my painting process for minis but hadn’t posted a step-by-step set of pics. So here goes. 🙂

I start by priming my minis black, which makes for a poor photograph, and I usually use spray primer. Why not white or grey or green? I use to prime them grey but the end result was kind of muddy and it was too much work to brighten details. So I started priming everything white, but then the end result can look bright but a little washed out and I had to go back in and add shading to give the paint job depth. My current favorite technique is to prime them black and then dry-brush a heavy coat of white on all of the raised surfaces.


The areas that I left black are ones that will get metallic paints applied to them. The metallics look better dry-brushed onto a black background. Next is to apply base colors to everything.


These are just base colors with no shading or highlights. For items like those turtle shell shields I made every effort not to let the green paint get into the cracks in the shells, I wanted those to stay extra dark. Now here is the part where I’ve become lazy in my old age; The next step is to dunk them into a glossy polyurethane stain and varnish and let them dry overnight.

after dip+spray.jpg

I’ve been using a Tudor brown stain and it has the nice effect of leaving a dark residue in any crevices and adding better depth to the colors. This is often referred to as, “the dip”. It can be messy so I keep a number of disposable brushes handy and some mineral spirits for cleanup. After they come out of the dip the stain often wants to drip and glob in the wrong places (under the jaws and tails) and I give them a quick hit with the mineral spirits brush to thin the globby areas. After this they get sprayed with a matt varnish coat, which knocks down the shine, I don’t like super shiny minis. Then they get their bases decorated with a little bit of white glue and some scenic flocking or sand.


They then get one more spaying of matt varnish to make sure that their basing material is protected and these little fellas are done!

For matt sprays the ones I see most often in game stores are Armory brand, about $3, and Army Painter brand, about $6. I highly recommend the Army Painter brand as the Armory brand seems to get cloggy and spitty. The Army Painter brand has been very consistent in it’s quality and I greatly prefer it, despite the higher price.

Lizardmen 3D

Last year Fat Dragon Games began producing gaming terrain and miniatures that were available as digital downloads for 3D printers. It’s really cool stuff and you should go take a look at it; FDG-3D   Since it is a digital file you can print as many of a piece as you need or change the scale of the items. I made some FDG Lizardfolk to see how my printer worked and how well those sculpts fit in with my GW Lizardman models.


The proportions are nice but detail is a little soft, however I have seen better versions of these models so I suspect I need to keep tinkering with my printer’s settings…once I get it working again. :/

I also tried enlarging one of the Lizardfolk in the slicer program that talks to the printer to see if I could get one that was in scale with a GW Kroxigor;


I overdid the scaling just a touch. 🙂

I also painted up a different Reaper Bones lizardman sculpt, this one was easier to work with as the detail was cleaner and I suspect it was just a better quality mold than the first one I painted.


One of the things I look for when I’m shopping for Lizardfolk/men is what the artist does with the feet. One of Reaper’s sculpts was of a Lizardman adventurer….wearing boots. That was a non-starter for me as lizardmen should be barefoot or wearing sandals. Maybe flip-flops. Otherwise they look weird to me, like they’re trying to fit into humanoid society. Next thing they’ll be wearing neck ties. 🙂

Lizardmen again!

It’s 2017 and my teenage son wanted to get into playing 40K so I’ve been teaching him how to play and how to paint his Space Orks. Doing that rekindled my desire to finish all the lizardmen I started forever ago and I’ve been cranking through them the past few weeks. It’s been a while since I painted and my eyesight up close has really deteriorated the past few years and it makes some fine details very difficult, I still enjoy painting minis though. First off here is a group of Temple Guardians to provide an elite unit;


The big dude with the axe is an Antimatter Games Draconid warrior with a GW dino-skull helmet to help him blend in with his fellows. I like the fine detail on the Antimatter sculpts I’ve purchased but his head was kind of tiny, hence the helmet. I also added a shell shield to his back.

20170124_085948 I also picked up some lizard dudes from Reaper games; one in the Bones plastic material and one metal one. Some of the Bones have good detail, this one was a little soft on the detail. The metal one was great fun to paint though and makes for a very dramatic reptillian warrior-mage.

Age of Sigmar’s arrival from GW caused a number of gamers to ditch their armies on the cheap and I picked up a lot of old lizardmen from Ebay really cheap, including a couple more classic Kroxigor.


Here is the next batch of works in progress including an Antimatter Games Dagothanan Reef Lord, I love his toothy grin. 🙂 The guys in the background are all modified GW plastics. My lizards are still predominatly orange. 🙂


Finishing bits

The past couple days I concentrated on getting through some pieces that were almost done, and have been that way for a while. The oldest of the lot is this Ork Warboss with a ridiculously large gun. ImageHe sat around with black primer and dry-brushed green skin base for over ten years. Next up is my new Lizardman Army Standard Bearer with Skink attendants.


He’s only been bouncing around my bench for three months so not too bad time-wise. Then, while I was waiting for different colors and basing glues to dry on the above two I started dry-brushing and washing colors onto my new Reaper Bones Earth Elemental;


One thing I forgot to mention on the Bones cyber-gorilla from last week was that the primer paint felt a little gooey until paint went on top of it. I made sure that the Earth Elemental got a nice soapy warm bath before getting primed and had no problems. This guy is enormous. Lots of little details and texture built into him, really fun to paint. I didn’t even notice the skeleton on his right shoulder until I started dry-brushing and then it just popped out at me, hey look what I found! I have no idea what that muscular blue dude in the third frame is, he wandered into my collection a long time ago and I just recently decided to paint him. I think he’s from some super-villain collection.

The finished Earth Elemental;


One of the many nice things about the Reaper Bones line is that they all come with an integrated base, many with interesting textural details. In this case I thought his base was a little small so I built a 60mm diameter base out of three layers of cardstock and added some extra rocks to the base.

Everybody here has been finished using the polyurethane dip and matt coat finishing method.

Gorillanoids & Skullbreakers


My Heroscape Gorillanoids have a big brother heavy now, I’ll have to come up with a Heroscape stat card and maybe a Mutants and Death Ray Guns version of these guys too.

Work also continues on my reptillian forces; I cleaned up a few more of the ebay lizardman rejects I bought a while back and also purchased a Reaper Reptus Skullbreaker, sculpted by C. Elliot.


Why is he red? Well, when the order arrived this bottle of paint was in the box with a note from Reaper minis saying “Surprise!” as they’ll randomly gift customers with little prizes like this. I wanted to see what the quality of their paint was like so the Skullbreaker became the test subject. The paint is in a dropper bottle, goes on smooth and looked really thin at first, I thought I’d need to do a second coat of the red. When the red dried it was much darker and shinier than I’d initially expected it would be. Quite a pleasant surprise all ’round.


He still needs a little bit of highlighting and detailing but I’ll come back to him in a bit.

Tale of Two Skinks, part 2

Finally got back to painting after the wild rumpus of spring wound down. I’m an Auditorium Technician for the school district so I hop around designing lights and running sound for theatrical events, dance shows, concerts and recitals. Springtime is huge for us with every school doing their final productions of everything, and banquets, and speechifying evenings, and then all of the community groups come rolling in to do their performance. And I’m involved in a Historical Recrudescence Guild at the Renaissance Faire; I work as a woodcarver/carpenter demonstrating medieval carving and construction techniques and frightening small children with the disturbing and demented puppet heads I carve. But hey, that’s all calmed down so I can paint again and possibly get back to my papermodel designing.

When last we checked in on our intrepid skinks one had been primed white, the other black. The black primed one had then had a white drybrush applied to it’s raised surfaces. They both then had a nice coat of yellow laid on for their skin base. The first thing I noticed was that the white primed one was definitely brighter. I finished their other colors and dipped them in tudor satin polyurethane. They’ve been lightly sprayed with a matt coat in the following pictures but they do need one one more spray to even out the shine.


I like a lot of the color effect of the black primed with white drybrush, but to my eyes the white primed one is brighter. Simpler too as I have about sixty of these minis that I’ll be painting up and the black primed with white drybrush is pretty labor intensive. I’ll reserve that technique for more important minis; leaders, heroes, and special troops that I want to stand out from the rank and file.


Edit: For some reason WordPress recommended a tag label of “DNA Profiling”….I have no idea why. I’m going to start sneaking that phrase into more of my posts though.

A Tale of Two Skinks, part 1

I have bunch of old and new GW skink minis along with some Harlequin Miniatures Lizardman troops that my older brother gave me and will work well as a skink regiment. Since there’s so many of them to paint (40+) I’m experimenting with methods that will help me to complete them without me losing my mind. I really like the greyscale (black primer then white dry-brushing) basing that I’ve been doing for my lizardmen but it feels like it’ll be a butt-ton of work to do all of the skink forces using that method. I think I’ll reserve that method for more important minis, and just get the rank and file DONE. Done is beautiful. But i wanted to experiment a little first and see how big of a difference their would be between the greyscale basing and just priming the minis white, so here goes;


Then I applied yellows to each for their skin, their spots and fins will be red but to get a bright red you have to have bright base, so yellow everywhere. And dark hunter green as the base for their shields.


They switched sides in this pic, oops, the white based one is on the left now. More to come later.

Snow & Dragonblood


Seriously, more snowfall yesterday and today.  This is all this guys fault-


Meanwhile on the workbench- I ordered a couple of Dragonblood Miniatures Lizardy folk, sculpted by the tremendously talented Eric Louchard, to see how they compare to my GW Saurians.


The Dragonblood is taller and leaner, but the detail is really crisp so he’ll be a fun paintjob as a Saurian champion.