I was writing about GorkaMorka yesterday, and the Ork projects in my house are continuing, and I found I had an unbuilt sprue of a Trukk, hurray! Here is what a basic plastic Trukk looks like;
The bed is kind of small and it’s difficult to pile minis with 25mm bases into it, so in GorkaMorka they made the mini bases smaller, but then the minis ended up being top heavy and falling down a lot. Hrm…Originally GW produced, about 1990 I think Ork Battlewagon kits;
The fighting compartment on these was also really small and the Orky transport rules said that it could carry as many Ork minis as you could physically pile on the model. If the troop minis fell off while the Battlewagon was being moved then they were wounded or dead. They carried the same silly rule over to the GorkaMorka game so I modded my Trukks to have bigger fighting compartments;
This Ork army project has motivated my son to clean part of his room and make a nice little, well-lit and tidy, workspace for his painting projects.
It’s his first big model project and he’s quite excited about it, I’m sure it will get very messy soon. I’m still working through older than old projects alongside new projects. Once upon a time Games Workshop produced a very fun boxed game called GorkaMorka about a planet filled with Ork tribes who drove around all day having car chases and gun fights. I, as an Ork player, thought it was great fun. It was only in production for a couple of years though, GW is fickle sometimes. One of the last models they produced for it was the DeffKopta;
I’ve had this model sitting around built and unpainted forever and I noticed in the new rules that you can have a swarm of these silly birds. Here it is with base colors done;
The little fellow chasing it is a plastic Mantic Marauder (Space Ork) from their Deadzone game and he’s going to be painted up to match my other Space Ork Kommandos. I hadn’t worked with Mantic’s plastics before and I found it a bit troublesome to clean up the figure and some of the detail, particularly in the facial features, was a bit soft. I’ve wanted to give their miniatures a try for some time though and I can use more Kommandos. Here’s the Deffkopta draining and drying after a nice dip in a can of polyurethane stain;
I’ll let the Kopta and the Kommando sit overnight and see how they look in the morning.
I realized that I’ve talked about my painting process for minis but hadn’t posted a step-by-step set of pics. So here goes. 🙂
I start by priming my minis black, which makes for a poor photograph, and I usually use spray primer. Why not white or grey or green? I use to prime them grey but the end result was kind of muddy and it was too much work to brighten details. So I started priming everything white, but then the end result can look bright but a little washed out and I had to go back in and add shading to give the paint job depth. My current favorite technique is to prime them black and then dry-brush a heavy coat of white on all of the raised surfaces.
The areas that I left black are ones that will get metallic paints applied to them. The metallics look better dry-brushed onto a black background. Next is to apply base colors to everything.
These are just base colors with no shading or highlights. For items like those turtle shell shields I made every effort not to let the green paint get into the cracks in the shells, I wanted those to stay extra dark. Now here is the part where I’ve become lazy in my old age; The next step is to dunk them into a glossy polyurethane stain and varnish and let them dry overnight.
I’ve been using a Tudor brown stain and it has the nice effect of leaving a dark residue in any crevices and adding better depth to the colors. This is often referred to as, “the dip”. It can be messy so I keep a number of disposable brushes handy and some mineral spirits for cleanup. After they come out of the dip the stain often wants to drip and glob in the wrong places (under the jaws and tails) and I give them a quick hit with the mineral spirits brush to thin the globby areas. After this they get sprayed with a matt varnish coat, which knocks down the shine, I don’t like super shiny minis. Then they get their bases decorated with a little bit of white glue and some scenic flocking or sand.
They then get one more spaying of matt varnish to make sure that their basing material is protected and these little fellas are done!
For matt sprays the ones I see most often in game stores are Armory brand, about $3, and Army Painter brand, about $6. I highly recommend the Army Painter brand as the Armory brand seems to get cloggy and spitty. The Army Painter brand has been very consistent in it’s quality and I greatly prefer it, despite the higher price.
Last year Fat Dragon Games began producing gaming terrain and miniatures that were available as digital downloads for 3D printers. It’s really cool stuff and you should go take a look at it; FDG-3D Since it is a digital file you can print as many of a piece as you need or change the scale of the items. I made some FDG Lizardfolk to see how my printer worked and how well those sculpts fit in with my GW Lizardman models.
The proportions are nice but detail is a little soft, however I have seen better versions of these models so I suspect I need to keep tinkering with my printer’s settings…once I get it working again.
I also tried enlarging one of the Lizardfolk in the slicer program that talks to the printer to see if I could get one that was in scale with a GW Kroxigor;
I overdid the scaling just a touch. 🙂
I also painted up a different Reaper Bones lizardman sculpt, this one was easier to work with as the detail was cleaner and I suspect it was just a better quality mold than the first one I painted.
One of the things I look for when I’m shopping for Lizardfolk/men is what the artist does with the feet. One of Reaper’s sculpts was of a Lizardman adventurer….wearing boots. That was a non-starter for me as lizardmen should be barefoot or wearing sandals. Maybe flip-flops. Otherwise they look weird to me, like they’re trying to fit into humanoid society. Next thing they’ll be wearing neck ties. 🙂
Back in my day things were smaller….Back in the late 1980’s when I started collecting and painting 40K minis the Space Ork Dredds looked like the little guy on the right. You could get an expansion kit to biggify them like the guy on the left, but they seemed hard to come by. In my son’s kit the centerpiece of his force is the hulking brute Deff Dredd in the center, an all plastic kit where mine are lead/pewter. We’re still talking through painting techniques and color schemes but he really likes the Bad Moon yellow scheme that I use on most of my forces. My show’s opening night was cancelled this evening due to foul weather so I believe we’ll be getting started on the big fella this evening.
Sometimes the army lists provided by GW listed options for the forces that weren’t readily available on the models. This was back when they encouraged scratch-building and modifying minis to get to WYSIWYG. The ork lists said you could get a Dredd with power claws and a flamer, so I made this little fella out of bits from a Skorcha wartrakk.
In the new plastic box there is every option you could ever need and you end up with a pile of very nice extra bits. I’m very impressed with GW’s improvements to quality.
My son received a Space Ork starter set for Christmas and has had a great time assembling everything, particularly the new, enormous, Deff Dred. Last fall we had our first mini painting session and I walked him through the basics with an old Ork Heavy that I picked up in 1995. Clean, prime, drybrush white, apply basic colors, drybrush metals, pick out details, dip, matte spray, basing material, check highlights, matte spray again, done.
The newer Orks will be easier as the scale has become enlarged over time. I also polished off a Mega-Armor Ork Nob that I picked up 10 or 12 years ago.
We also played a game of Kill Team, small unit 40K actions, using the 7th edition rules. I hadn’t played 7th edition so I spent a lot of time looking up the rules and figuring out changes between editions. I think the majority of changes streamline play nicely, the writing is very clunky though so pulling the meaning out of the rulebook took a bit of chewing to digest. He won, fun game, here’s a few pics;
It was an Orks vs Orks fight with lots of shooting and very little accuracy followed by some very decisive close combat. We’ll most likely start painting his Orks this weekend as he is figuring out his color schemes and setting up a painting area in his room.
It’s 2017 and my teenage son wanted to get into playing 40K so I’ve been teaching him how to play and how to paint his Space Orks. Doing that rekindled my desire to finish all the lizardmen I started forever ago and I’ve been cranking through them the past few weeks. It’s been a while since I painted and my eyesight up close has really deteriorated the past few years and it makes some fine details very difficult, I still enjoy painting minis though. First off here is a group of Temple Guardians to provide an elite unit;
The big dude with the axe is an Antimatter Games Draconid warrior with a GW dino-skull helmet to help him blend in with his fellows. I like the fine detail on the Antimatter sculpts I’ve purchased but his head was kind of tiny, hence the helmet. I also added a shell shield to his back.
I also picked up some lizard dudes from Reaper games; one in the Bones plastic material and one metal one. Some of the Bones have good detail, this one was a little soft on the detail. The metal one was great fun to paint though and makes for a very dramatic reptillian warrior-mage.
Age of Sigmar’s arrival from GW caused a number of gamers to ditch their armies on the cheap and I picked up a lot of old lizardmen from Ebay really cheap, including a couple more classic Kroxigor.
Here is the next batch of works in progress including an Antimatter Games Dagothanan Reef Lord, I love his toothy grin. 🙂 The guys in the background are all modified GW plastics. My lizards are still predominatly orange. 🙂