Warbikes – finale!

I was finally able to finish off the ork warbikes with base flocking and final matte spraying, only seventeen years later. I’m pretty sure I purchased all of these two house moves ago and they’ve just been bouncing along in storage all this time. The good thing, sort of good, is that my rule (more of a temptational guideline) of not purchasing new models until I finish old models means I can finally purchase some new toys. 🙂 If I want to, I have to confer with my son as to future projects that would be mutually enjoyable. I still have tons of old projects that I’d like to complete or, in the case of the Tyranids, sell off. I believe I’ll knock out some of my old Eldar (space elves) projects next. Here’s the full mob;

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Half a dozen were all the same hunched-over bald guy.

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Here are the Nobz two-seater bikes with a Gretchin and a Mekaniak as passengers.

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And here is a scale comparison between first and second edition warbikes. I know I will be working on third edition warbikes in the near future.

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‘Nids Mr. Rico! Jillions of ’em!

Pay no attention to this post unless you are interested in looking at old, giant space bugs. I have a crate of Tyranids on my shelf that I know it is very unlikely I will ever paint them, so I’m prepping them for sale; inventory, photograph and bag. Here’s the lot, it’ll head for ebay soon unless one of my son’s friends purchases them.

For starters here is a first edition Biovore. Metal, unfortunately missing it’s left leg.

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Next up is three second edition metal Biovore’s, all intact.biovores-3

A first edition Carnifex; metal, painted nicely, and intact.carnifex-1-1carnifex-1-2

A second edition Carnifex with a metal body and plastic arms.carnifex-2

Another first edition Carnifex with a metal body but it’s original limbs are missing and I’ve had to substitute plastic ones.carnifex-3Gargoyles (4); metal, but not in the best of shape. The two on the ground have their flight poles broken off inside their bodies and will have to be drilled out. One is missing it’s wings and I only have the one flight pole.

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Genestealers (24); First edition plastics, most have a washer weight under their bases for stability, all with all four limbs.genestealers-1

More Genestealers (34); Unfortunately only enough arms for sixteen of them, and only fifteen bases. Farther down I also have a ton of Termagant spare parts which could be used to finish and mod these bodies.genestealers-2

Version 1 Hive Tyant; Metal, intact, even an extra set of gun arms.

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Hive Tyrant version 2; Metal, no arms to be found.

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Homagaunts(9); Metal, intact, eight have bases, there is one more body (not pictured) that has no arms or base.hormagaunts-metal

Hormagaunts (17); Plastic, eight with bases and washers for weights.hormagaunts-plastic

Lictor; 1st edition, metal and intact.

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Armorcast Malefactor 28mm scale; One big chunk of resin, intact. Back when GW was making the game Space Marine and Titan Legions they were producing unique units in 6mm scale. Armorcast had the license to produce the units in 28mm scale, not many of them around anymore. I’m not sure but I believe the Malefactor was supposed to be a troop transport for bugs.malefactor-28mm-1malefactor-28mm-2malefactor-28mm-3

Ripper Swarms (5); Plastic, kinda cute.ripper-swarms

Spore Mines (10); Metal.

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Termagant parts; Many on sprues, some loose, the next three pictures show them all.termagant-parts-1termagant-parts-2termagant-parts-3

Termagants (17); Version 1 plastics.termagants-old

Termagants (22); Version 2 multi-part plastics armed with pistol things.

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Tyranid Warrior #1; 1st edition metal, painted and intact.

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Tyranid warrior #2; 1st edition, metal, painted, and intact.tyranid-warrior-2

Tyranid Warrior parts; 2nd edition plastic, there is enough on the sprues to make two complete 2nd edition Warriors and quite a few extra bits for whatever, including a metal rifle arm. The extra bits could be very handy for the next entry.tyranid-warrior-parts

Tyranid Warriors (6-ish); Plastic, 1st edition, all missing arms, only two bases, one missing leg and one missing head. Could easily be finished up using the 2nd edition Warrior parts above.tyranid-warriors-old

Tyranid Warriors (3); 2nd edition plastics, complete, washers under the bases for weight.tyranid-warriors3

Tyrant Guards (2); Metal, one with an extra washer under it’s base for weight.tyrant-guard-1tyrant-guard-2

Zoanthrope; 2nd edition, metal, extra washer under base for weight.zoanthrope-2

Zoanthrope; 1st edition, metal, intact.zoanthrope-oop1

That’s everybody! I wish I hadn’t misplaced a few limbs over the years that I’ve had these and I’m certain it will make a good army core for somebody else.

Imperial Assault

No, it’s not another Executive Order, it’s a miniatures skirmish boardgame from Fantasy Flight Games (FFG). Here’s there advert blurb; “Imperial Assault is a strategy board game of tactical combat and missions for two to five players, offering two distinct games of battle and adventure in the Star Wars™ universe!”

FFG has made the rules and a few other resources free here; Imperial Assault

It’s a pretty decent game with quality miniatures and tiles to play with. It does require custom FFG Star Wars dice to play and the rules layout is a little clunky. It took me a while to get the rhythm of a turn, that could just be me though. It is fun though and I’ve painted the few minis that I own as my friend Dave has the main game and all the other minis.

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The minis come in a nice hard plastic grey with really crisp detail, the Rebel scum are molded in a tan colored plastic. These two Imperial special agents just need a bit of highlighting to keep their whites tidy but I’m not going to do anything else to their bases.

I’ve run out of matte spray to finish up the warbikes so they have to wait a day until I can get to the shop.

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Finally finished all of the bike rider, and a few extra passengers. They used a really small palette as they are intended to be a unit and I decided not to diversify their color schemes. I realize that uniformity is not a very Orky aesthetic, but I like the look of all the yellow.

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Since they are bikers I used Abaddon Black for their gloves and boots as it is a semi-gloss and I liked the shine in this instance. Waagh flesh for the green skin, Flaming orange for the occasional decoration (hair, wristbands), Pig iron metallic dry-brushed onto weapons, goggles and gear, Big Top red for scarves and eye sockets, white for teeth, Mournfang brown (nice reddy brown) for belts and suspenders, and nice bright Flash Gitz yellow for their pajamas. Odd names I know, each company makes their own designer paints and unfortunately Games Workshop did a big makeover of their paint line a few years ago and changed all of the names. I have a mix of old and new paint names in my paint box and I’ve found this conversion guide very helpful to find the new names of the colors that I used to work with. Citadel Paint Conversion

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This was very handy when I needed to replace my old Bleached Bone, an off-white color that I use for a canvas base, which is now called Ushabti Bone. At least it still has ‘bone’ in the title. Here are the riders being glued onto their vehicles;

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This is pre-dip, and there are several Imperial Assault characters that are also almost done. Two of the bikes were actually two-seater Nobz bikes, that’s why that mek with a big gun is looking over that fella on the left’s shoulder. The guy in the lower right is a version two plastic rider, the other riders are all lead, I’ll glue his arms on after I have him seated. Those rolled up tarps on the front of the bikes were all done with bleached bone, the dip should darken and shade them nicely. Here’s everybody post-dip drying;

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My son also finished four more of his boyz and they were able to join the queue in time for tonight’s dip. The Imperial troops will get a little white highlight work after they get their first coat of matte spray, can’t really paint directly on top of the dried polyurethane; too slippery. These should all be done by tomorrow night.

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Finally have all of the basic colors neatly applied and the bases painted brown. Why paint the bases brown when I’m going to texture and flock them later anyways? In case there are any thin spots in the texturing  no one will notice a brown patch but a black patch will be fairly obvious. I also prefer the look of the base edges in brown as I feel it blends into the tabletop better than a harsh black edge. Next step is the dip;

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I also added a 60mm base to my 2nd generation Ork Dredd, he looked naked without a base, and redid the bases for some old GorkaMorka boyz that had really tiny bases;

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I also consider this Mantic Grot cannon complete;

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Tonight the bikes get dipped and tomorrow I start on all 11 of the riders.

Citadel paints

This site has a very nice guide for the proper application of Citadel Paints to achieve certain effects. Citadel Paints As I said yesterday, using their paints is not strictly necessary to achieve the effects pictured here, you just need to know how the different paint colors will interact with each other.

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After prepping and priming a miniature I gather the paint palette for the project;

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Mournfang Brown for the tires and ground base, Balor Brown for the seats and handle bars, Bleached Bone for the front and back rolled up tarps, Pig Iron for the bulk of the metals, Quick Silver for the headlamps, Troll Slayer Orange to serve as a base for the Big Top Red that will go on the gun barrels, front fender, hoses, and exhausts and black and white for touchups/repairs. Red acrylics are usually a bit thin so painting an area orange first makes for a stronger red and better depth of color. If you make a mistake and need to repaint something you can use white or black to blot over the mistake and redo it.

The paints are from four different manufacturers because I don’t feel you should be bound by one company’s dogma when it comes to personal design choices. Citadel makes a lot of really good products at the moment, that hasn’t always been the case though. At one point thier bottle designs caused the paints to dry out ridiculously fast. I use a lot of white, particularly as a dry-brushing base, so the big cheap bottle works great for that. Find what works for you. Here is today’s progress; I’ve done all of the small parts and I’ve started putting on the Pig Iron for the main body metals on the column of bikes on the left.

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I thought the Pig Iron would be darker and unfortunately it’s only a little darker than the Quicksilver on the headlamps. I’m thinking about a dark wash on the Pig Iron, not sure yet though.

In other project news, the Mantic Marauder squad is finished, here they are along with the Blood Axe Kommandos that they’ll be joining;

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I think they’ll fit in just fine, even though those Marauder upper bodies still look weird to me.